Chaffeys Lock and Mortons Bay

 Chaffey’s Lock & Mortons Bay

On Sunday July 10th we headed off to Mortons Bay for a secluded anchorage but on the way we had a planned lunch stop at Chaffey’s Lock. It was a short cruise of about 27 miles and only 3 locks. The cruise took us thru the some beautiful sections of the Rideau. We arrived at Chaffey’s Lock at about 11am.

The lock is located right across the street from the Opinicon Hotel which is a vintage property that made it’s mark back in the early 1900’s catering to wealthy fishermen. They had boats and guides that would take people on charters looking for Pickerel, Large mouth Bass and Northern Pike. Again it was a place frequented by rich and famous of the era.

The Hotel was bought a few years back by a woman who owned a company called Sofi. I forget exactly what they do, but it is a world wide company. Anyhow she dumped a ton of money into a complete restoration. Unfortunately they no longer accept guests at the moment, but they still have a four star restaurant and an ice cream store.  

Yes we did have some and yes it was spectacular. Rumor has it that the new owner was not satisfied with the previous vendor so she set up her own creamery. After lunch Sue took a dip in the basin leading to the lock to swim with the fish. The water visibility was at least 15 feet. We then finished our day by passing thru a narrow cut that might have been 25 feet wide.

Next Chapter has a 15’ beam leaving very little room to sneak in. On the inside was a very secluded cove loaded with Loons. We set the hook and enjoyed a quiet peaceful evening. The next morning we splashed the dinghy and motored over to the side of a small mountain. The night before on the boat we saw some people on the top at a lookout.

We assumed there must be a trail and we were right. We hiked up to the top and had a great view of the cove where Next Chapter was swinging on her rode. Unfortunately neither one of us brought our cell phone to take a picture. We hiked back down and started our final day on the Rideau with the port destination of Kingston, Ontario. The top section of our cruise was another area dotted with little rocky pine tree covered islands. As we passed thru Little Cranberry Lake all of a sudden BANG! Don’t you just love a cliff hanger?

The View looking back out of the cut from Mortons Bay.  

Inside Mortons Bay. To recall Morton’s Bay, I have to add expand on our experience with the loons.  During the day, pairs will separate and fish for salamanders, leeches and minnows.  At dusk the pairs reunite. It happens at dusk, right when the sun is setting with the last bits of sun on the water.  You will hear one loon call.  A very distinctive wail of sorts.  It’s a single loon letting it’s mate know “I am here”.  And then the response…from it’s mate, sometimes a mile away….a sound like no other, that haunting wail  saying “I am here.”  

Probably can’t see the writing on the bench but this is where the fishermen would sit at the end of the day to talk about the ones that got away. It was known as the Liars Bench. I know what you all are thinking!

Now this is waterfront property. No need for a lawn mower. This house was super close to where I was swimming.  I was pretty much eye level to the kitchen, hopeful it might be a swim up bar I swam by.  No one appeared, so it was back to Next Chapter.  This was my second dip in Canadian waters.  The first was a cannonball off a dock in Clayton, New York with Kevin Knight!!! What were we thinking?  The water has warmed up in three weeks time since Kevin and Tina visited. In junior high school students were required to include 50 hours of volunteer work starting in 8th grade.  If I was going to do something for 50 hours it better be something I really enjoyed.  I had been swimming on the Red Devil YMCA swim team and noticed that after our practices the pool was used by children with physical needs.  I soon learned their instructor was an Adaptive Aquatics teacher.  She said I could observe and shadow her and before long I was growing my hours on my volunteer and my interest in working with children with special needs. My second swim in Canadian waters brought back lots of fond memories of a girls who liked the water and still enjoys a dip now and then.

Beautifully restored Opinicon Hotel

So as Mike mentioned this once defunct property is a vibrant vacation spot (lodging soon to open).  It employees many towns people in landscaping, food service, house keeping, maintenance etc.  We thought it was pretty awesome that this woman choose to return to this small town where she grew up and put a bunch of money back into it.  When you enter the very chic lobby you are greeted by eager high school aged young people so proud to show you around.  

Westport

 Westport

On Friday morning June 8th we had another leisurely departure to explore more of the incredible Rideau Canal cruising grounds. Our planned cruise was for a 33 mile trip passing thru the upper, big and lower Rideau lakes. The lakes are dotted with both tiny and mid sized islands with manes like Three Sisters islands, Col By Island and Manitok Island.

 

There is unlimited little coves and fingers along the way. We nosed up into a couple of them to enjoy the scenery. The day would only have us transiting 4 locks to reach our destination. Westport is located on the west end of a large bay with a large ridge on the north side which has a Conservation area, read natural park full of trails.

We rode/walked/rode our bikes up to the park. Walked them part way because of a very steep road to the top of the ridge. The trail we started on led us to an overlook that looked down on the town and waterfront area. We continued along the trail briefly until the horse fly squadron attacked us. These thing do not sting they bite which feel like they are taking a small amount of flesh with them.

The truly swarmed us. Retreat back to the bikes. We found another trail that led to a beaver pond and a great rock to sit on to enjoy the view. After a bit more of biking thru the park we headed back to the boat and got to enjoy a very thrilling downhill ride. Remember the part of walking the bikes? Dinner was at a local Winery that had a great view of the water.

Special on the menu was Ribeye over wood fired grill. Boy was it good!. Sue thought the wine was pretty good also. 

Saturday we went to a small farmers market and walked around the small town. They had a fantastic Village Museum that was full of all kinds of items from the early 1900’s that locals had donated.

There was a lot to look at. We also stopped by a gem stone shop where the owner/chief rock picker was sitting out front talking about the different rocks. He even showed us these special rocks that when hit with a certain laser they glowed different colors.  We found the local bakery which had a sign in the window that said”Over 300,00 Butter Tarts Made”. Well we had to try them.

After talking with the owner she said that the sign is old and that the number is closer to 500K! We thought we had already had the best but we were wrong. These were even better.  On a sad note she shared with us that before Covid she had a staff of 30. Now she is down to 8 and cannot find anybody who wants to work. She sells out every day by 11am.

Dinner was was at the Cove Inn. Although they were also understaffed and the food was just ok we loved the atmosphere and the live music. We met up with some Looper friends who had us over to their boat for a night cap of “Little Beers”. Little beers are a shot of a liquor called 43 topped off with heavy cream. 43 is yellow in color so with the cream on top it looks like a Little Beer but it tastes like a Milk Shake! 

Westport Historical Museum

Loaded with all kinds of old items donated from locals

Some of the items were off the wall!

Kitchen at the Winery. Wood fired grill. Perfect for Ribeye!

Ride up the Rideau

Rideau Heritage Canal Cruise

 

On Wednesday July 6th we slipped away from the lock wall in Ottawa at 9 am. A little late you may say! Well one thing about the Rideau is that the locks don’t start until 9am and the speed limit on many parts is only 10 KPH which is about 6 mph. I know Anna, you can definitely run that fast. In any event it makes for very relaxing cruising. Sometimes there just isn’t good enough adjectives to appropriately describe something and this section of our cruise has been just that. To top it off the weather has been simply amazing with crystal clear blue skies warm afternoons and cool, sometimes chilly nights. Our day consisted of a 40 mile cruise that included 8 locks. Our boat is at the upper size limit of what can safely pass through the system so we got a lot of attention. I can also say there were many sections that my little thought bubble was yelling you don’t belong here you’re too big.  I didn’t know it but watching boats go through the locks is somewhat of a Canadian past time. Like all canal systems they are a combination of dug sections, natural rivers and lakes both created and natural. We made our final destination to Burritts Rapids about 4 pm and snugged up to the wall.

Sue saw a group of folks hanging out next to the locks and promptly announced we would be right over to have happy hour. And so we did. This particular group was a mix of locals and a group that was Kayaking down the Rideau to Ottawa. The two groups knew each other  and had planned the get together. We just made new Canadian friends! It was fun to hear their stories and get a little more insight of life  in Canada. We took a walk on a wooded trail towards the tiny village but found it necessary to retreat. Did I mention it was at dusk? We thought we would need a transfusion by time we got back to the boat.

Man those Canadian mosquitoes are world class at what they do. 

On Thursday we headed off at 9 am only to stop about 800 yards to wait for the lock attendant to come open the manual swing bridge. Yes this one they actually push it to open it. Our cruise would only be about 20 miles but we had to transit 11 locks.

We had a planned day stop at Merrickville which we arrived at about 10:30 am. First order was to find the so revered Ontario Butter Tarts. Loopers profess their scrumptious qualities. So we had to find out what all the fuss was about. I wish we hadn’t. Those things should only be administered under a Drs supervision due their highly addictive nature. So to describe: They are a small pastry cup and of pie dough with butter as the fat. Then they are filled with this sugary filling of maple syrup more butter then either raisins, pecans or just plain. We found ours at the Village Bakery. When we inquired  which of the three were the best as we had never had one she recommended the pecan and the raisin. We gobbled them down moaning as we consumed. The owner/baker then appeared only to drop off a complementary plain one saying we had to experience all of them. Canadian hospitality at it’s finest. 

We walked around the picturesque small town ducking into the occasional shop and even went to a shop where they blow glass. We were able to watch the artist make a piece. So cool how they do that or I meant to say HOT!

Lunch was at a little out door patio under a tree canopy. The sandwiches were fab. Now that that we were full, we went back to the boat to finish our cruise to Smith Falls. We got to the wall about 5 pm and were still full from our late lunch so we mounted the bikes and headed off to a close by Walmart for some provisions.

The wall we were at was actually right at a park with lots of green space beautiful flower beds and plenty of shade. They had a kids movie night where they had a blow up screen showing one of the latest Disney movies. Smith Falls is also the home port for Le Boats. Le Boats is a boat charter company that rents cruiser boats. Without hesitation we can recommend to any of you, that like to be on the water, cruising the Rideau for a week would be an epic vacation.  And if anyone wants to plan this the future with us, we would gladly join!!!

Lock mechanisms. Ok Sue gets a little unfocused in the area of locks.  It’s often like watching paint dry and I get a little bored waiting for the water to do  it’s thing.  The college students that manage the locks are always fun to chat with.  Probably well over 200 students that work in the summer.  At the end of the season I hear they meet up and have a lunch that turns into dinner that turns into a party.  That is my input on lock mechanisms.

Below: Who needs a boat in your back yard when you have one of these!

I seriously wish Mike would add “pilot” to his talents.  Seeing the float planes I imagine seeing all of this area by plane.

 

Spillway into upper Rideau Lake

Hand operated swing bridge

Beautiful scenery

The only problem I run in to is not having the words to describe the beauty we get to see on a daily basis.  I am glad I have Mike to do this with so we can at least remember between the two of us!!

Yummy! So we learned that the owner of one of the bakeries had 30 employees before good old covid and now she only has 8…needless to say thee was a “help wanted” sign on her door.  I felt like I was back in the states.  We are not alone with our problems as a “country.”  

College kids working hard

Can you say duck?  This always terrifies me.  Mike will tell me to run up and check how close we are to the top of whatever we are passing under.  Like it’s going to help is I say…”too close” because it will be “too late”.  Somehow we trust those boaters that have gone before us and say “glad you went before me.”

On the left is one of the Le Boats

Sunset at Smith Falls which by the way was 9:15 pm. 

Capital of Canada

 What is the Capital of Canada?

If you guessed Ottawa you win a free beer from Mike Kelly! Ottawa is a beautiful city with enough to offer  keep you busy for a month. We left Montebello on Sunday July 3rd for a 40 mile cruise to Canadas capital city. We stayed on the Quebec side at a marina because we had reached critical mass on clean laundry. Translate that to clean underwear was running out fast. Sue got that handled in short order and we were off to take a quick peak at the city which was a very short ride over the bridge. The Parliament  building complex was impressive to say the least. Back to the boat for dinner and an early night.

On Monday July 4th we crossed the Ottawa river to enter the “Flight of Locks” which is the gateway to the Rideau canal system. The flight of locks are a series of eight locks, one after the other,  that raise the boat 80’ above the river. Now here is the crazy part, the locks are all hand operated, both the gates and the valves. College kids fill most of the positions with a senior, much older, lock master to ensure all goes well. 

These locks still have wooden gates and manual gear driven cranks. It is a sight to behold. In essence they are exactly the way they were when the canal and lock system was  built in the early 1800’s. The Rideau canal system is part of the Heritage Canal Waterways. The Rideau was originally built as part of a defense system but later was utilized for commerce.

The canal has a total of 45 locks that raise a boat over 272’ across 124 miles of some of the most picturesque landscape imaginable. So after about an hour and a half we were thru and tied up at the lock wall in the center of  the city. The parliament buildings are all done in a grand Victorian style architecture keeping with their ties to England.

 

They are stunning to see up close. They somewhat reminded us of stylish castles. Unfortunately the center block as it is called and likened to our capitol building, is under a 15 year renovation program. Get this, they are removing each cut stone, cleaning it and then putting it back! Over 400K of them. Wow!

We did a tour of the complex with a young Canadian gal who was very enthusiastic. We stopped at a monument to the war of 1812 and she proceeded to explain it’s significance. Did you know that the war of 1812 was about the US trying to take over Canada and that we lost? The things you learn, lol.

We then went to a big market area and enjoyed the national art museum. There is also an extensive trail system thru out the city and along the canal. We reconnected with a couple of Loopers we met back on the Hudson who were also tied up to the lock wall. Tuesday was our first overcast drizzly day we had had in many weeks.

 

Fortunately it didn’t rain hard enough to stop us from continuing to explore the city. One other neat fact about the Rideau is that in the winter it turns into the worlds longest ice skating rink at 7 km long! No we did not strap on the blades and give it a go! 

Another beautiful church.  Below is the oldest Pub in Ottawa. 

Canada’s Parliament building center block

On the Blue line waiting to go up the flight of locks. 

Market area loaded with shops, restaurants and bars. 

looking back to Gatineau, Quebec. 

The wall we stayed at in the heart of Ottawa. Everything within a short walk. 

West Block where the House of Commons is currently being housed. 

Rideau Falls

So Ottawa has what I compare to DC’s Smithsonian’s.  Natural History, Air and Space and the Museum of Art. There is a large spider that delights and terrifies small children at the entrance of the museum. Inside in particular I enjoyed the indigenous people’s art.  The bison skin coats with glass bead work, tools they carved.  The colonists were fascinated by the indigenous way of life and painted many daily life scenes often painting what the artist wanted to see and not what was actually happening.  I saw numerous painting of Indians dancing and entertaining the colonists when in reality their relationships were often tenuous wondering if the colonists were their to steal their bison and land.  Thanks hon for letting me drag you into another art gallery.  And No, I did not walk under that creepy spider!!