The Berry Islands

On Wednesday morning March 29th we watched the sun come up on the Great Bahama Banks over coffee. It was still fairly calm with a bit of cloud cover spilling many shades of gray across the water. We left the anchorage for a short 24 mile cruise to Great Harbor on Stirrup Cay. We had a reservation at the marina but we found a spot in the harbor to anchor for the night.

It was still going to be fairly calm so we settled in for the day. The next morning we pulled into the marina as the winds were forecasted to get quite strong. Our friends on Inked Mermaid and Salt Wife were there also. First order was to wash the caked salt off of the boat. Once we had that tackled we hopped in the dinghy and headed to town or should I say settlement. Very little in town but there was a grocery store that just recently got a shipment of produce.

We bought a $9 head of cauliflower! You have to remember they do not grow anything on most of these islands. We were at the town dock when one of the local fisherman came in with the catch of the day. He and his mate dumped out buckets of fresh Hogfish, Yellow Tail, Strawberry Grouper and lobster tails that were huge. The Lobster tails were selling for $12 and were well over a pound.

Back at the marina we settled in and got to know a number of folks.It was amazing how many folks from Europe were there. Sweden, the UK, Switzerland and others. There was a great community feeling in this place. Friday night was Grill and Chill. They had a local Bahamian come do a barbecue complete with Peas and Rice. Sue put together a great scavenger hunt for the kids at the marina. They had a blast as only Sue can provide. 

Music was provided by boaters that brought their instruments and entertained us all. Scott on Salt Wife made a bunch of conch horns for the kids that were there. They blew them for the crowd to salute the sunset. It was quite cute. It was a lot of fun but it went too fast. 

Saturday we biked to end of the island where a remote breath taking beach sprawled across the landscape with blue saturated water that almost looked fake. We stopped at the Beach Bar for a quick bite for lunch.

When we got back to the marina we jumped into the dinghy and snorkeled an old ship wreck. When we got back to the marina our loaf of local fresh baked coconut bread was waiting for us on the boat. That evening was pizza night at the marina. This guy comes and bakes pizza to order onsite. Now we are talking $40 a pie. However it had lobster and conch on it. I must say it was worth every penny.

Sunday morning April 2nd I made a late morning decision to head out to our next port at Hoffman Cay 35 miles south in the lower part of the Berry Islands. As I looked at the long range weather I saw a cold front approaching which would bring stiff winds from the east making the crossing over to the Exumas not doable. Once in the Exumas we could run the west side of the chain blocking most of the effects of the wind and wave. The weather would be good thru Wednesday giving us a decent window to get there. Three other boats decided to follow as well. So at 11 am off we went.

Conditions were great with 8 mph winds and 1’ seas on our nose. We arrived at Hoffmans and got settled by about 3:30 pm. We took the dingy over to a blue hole on the center of the Cay. You could jump off into the crystal clear water from an overhang. It was fun. Being a pretty long day we called it quits pretty early. We would be leaving the next morning for Nassau at first light. 

Full of lobster

          Earlier the kids were actually petting their bellies off the back of the boat

Fresh Strawberry Grouper

                                                                 Beach Bar

Must have been 30 lbs of tails

                                                                                                     Catch of the day

Always Trust your Gut

Monday morning at first light we wiggled our way out of Angle Fish Creek, through the reef and into the magenta blue Gulf Stream. There was a flotilla of four boats; Salt Wife, Inked Mermaid, Escape and yours truly. We were very excited as this would be a big step for us into uncharted territory. Bimini was a mere 70 miles to the north east but the forecast wasn’t the greatest.

Sunny but the winds were a bit high. The wave prediction was 2’ landing on our forward starboard quarter. When we exited the reef we were met with 2-3’. Now there are two things that will put cruisers into peril. Schedules and excitement for the next port. We were guilty of the second not to mention we used the faulty notion that once we entered the Gulf Stream the current would flatten the seas a bit. Wrong! 3-4’ seas. Sue gave the green light to proceed but keep the color green in your mind. About two hours into the trip Sue came up from below clammy and sweating. Why I never got sick only God knows. Well nothing else to do on the cruise so I threw a line in the water and don’t you know we landed a 30” Baracuda. Nasty set of teeth on those fellows but he put up a great fight. 

Things finally calmed down a bit and we safely made it to Bimini. Now when I say blue water I’m talking blue like somebody touched the picture up too much. Think, “somebody must have plugged the water into an electrical socket. Once settled into our slip I walked down to clear Customs and Immigration. That was a snap.

We gave the boat a brief wash and we were off to explore. We found our way to a local beach bar to watch sunset and snack on some Bahamian conch fritters and sweet plantains. We washed them down with a couple of ice cold local Kalik beers. The winds were not looking favorable on Tuesday so we stayed an extra day in port.

We managed to get beach walk and a swim that afternoon along with a bike ride in Alice Town. Happy hour was at Stuarts Conch Stand where they have $2.50 Sands Light beer. A real deal in the Bahamas. The conch salad was spectacular. He picked the conch out of the water, cleaned them and prepared the salad. We ended up talking with four guys who were there on a 68’ Bobby Davis sport fish boat. They were from New Jersey and mostly retired. Well one thing led to another and we ended the evening on their boat. It was a beautiful boat. 

The next morning we left for the Great Bahama Banks with another boat, Liming. We met them back in Michigan this past summer. We made a 75 mile run in perfect conditions. Light wind and less than 1’ waves. We were within about 25 miles of Bimini but it was 4:30 so we pulled onto the bank to drop a hook for the night. Sleeping on the bank is something special. It is so vast.

The stars filled the sky from horizon to horizon. Unfortunately I got a first hand look at them. When Liming came in to set anchor I had a gut feeling just a bit close but I have been challenged judging distance on the bridge. Sometime in the middle of the night Sue shook me and said;” Mike the boat just hit something.” I said; “it can’t there is nothing to hit out here.

Well she persisted and I dutifully went topside in my skivies and don’t you know our stern was tapping the bow sprit of Liming. We anchored first so it turns out Liming had way too short of scope. When we swung we just touched. Fortunately is was very calm so no damage done. We started the engines, pulled anchor and reset a good distance away. I went right back to sleep. Not so sure about my first mate. But heck somebody has to be on watch!

Back on the High Seas

I know it has been awhile since I have updated the blog but we have been just too darn busy having fun. I am currently sitting at anchor just off the north east end of Nassau. I hope to get you all caught up soon. So here is the next installment.

Finally on Tuesday the 21st the weather was good enough to get to our first stop at Marathon. We managed to get a fill up of diesel from a tanker which saved us a good chunk of money. We then made the 44 mile trip to Marathon where we anchored for the night.

We had a completely unobstructed view to the west with the famous seven mile bridge off to the right. That night we enjoyed a couple of grilled lobster tails for dinner while watching the sunset. 

The next morning we cut over to the inside of the keys to head 12 miles to Matecumbe Key where there was a a nice anchorage with beautiful water.

We got on the dinghy and explored the mangrove channels. Later in the afternoon we went over to the famous Robbies Hungry Tarpon Restaurant. It is a staple on the keys where tour buses pull in to let people feed these massive Tarpon. 

We met a great couple from Ohio that were wintering in the area. He had just retired and was still in that phase of figuring out who he was. 

The Thursday morning we had a short 10 mile trip to lower Matecumbe where the village of Islamorada is located.

We anchored up right in front of Lorelei, another famous Key establishment. We were also close to Wild World of Sports which is where the first Bass Pro Outlet was born. We loaded the bikes in the dinghy and went ashore. We found our way to a Dive History Museum which turned out to be fantastic.

This guy undoubtedly has the largest collection of hard hat dive helmets in the world. The museum was very well done and covered diving from the diving bell all the way to scuba. We stopped at a couple of unique shops  along the way. We enjoyed a two person band at the Lorelei followed by a great dinner aboard. 

On Friday we headed 23 miles to Key Largo where we anchored in front of Sunset Marina where Brad Shirley and his wife Kathy, brother of Steve Shirleys, runs his parasail business out of. He met us there and was kind enough to loan us his truck so we could get some final provisions for the Bahamas.

Later we met up for dinner followed by a night cap aboard Next Chapter.                     

On Saturday we made the final 23 mile leg up the Keys to Angle Fish Creek on the north end of Key Largo which would serve as our jumping point to Bimini.

When we got to the anchorage we dropped the hook and backed down on it and heard a noise. Now we usually put the dinghy up on it’s mounts but that day we decided to tow it behind the boat. Well don’t you know the tow rope got sucked into the prop.

Shit! Back in the water to dive down and clear the rope off the wheel. I swear. So we have never been to North Key Largo and now that we have been we know what people are talking about.  It is truly a place of exuberant wealth.

It is largely a private community with its own private air strip, health clinic and small village complete with an Orvis outdoor outfitters. The homes there were all opulent beyond description and manicured to the tee. The mega yachts in Ocean Reef Resort were jaw dropping.

We connected with another looper boat, Inked Mermaid, whom we had met in Tarpon Springs months ago. They were making the crossing with two other boats and asked us to join in. We had a early captains meeting to discuss the plan for the morning and called an early night. 

                                  Had cover the cost of borrowing the truck in trade

The dinghy was packed to the brim with ship stores to go to the Bahamas. 

Fun in the Sun

 

We have been in Key West for over 6 weeks and have yet to see rain. In fact as I recall it has been sunny almost everyday. After we returned from the Tortugas on Tuesday Feb 28th we had a couple of days enjoying some down time and taking, if you can believe it, a slower pace. On Friday our boating friends Jim and Lisa Steinle made the trip from their boat in Ft Pierce to visit us over the weekend. Sue and I decided to move Next Chapter over to Key West Bight to anchor just in front of the wharf. On Saturday we went to the 59th annual Conch Blowing Contest. We really did not know what to expect.

It turned out to be a blast. We laughed the entire time. After much goading from Sue I decided to participate. Although I did not win I gave it the good ole Virginia try. We had a great time with Lisa and Jim showing them the sights which even included a Butterfly Conservatory. It was surprisingly really cool. They also had a number of different brightly colored fruit eating birds cruising around. 

After we said goodbye to Jim and Lisa My sister Mary from Apopka, Florida came for a visit. Now one thing you need to know about my sister, she has the same obsession about being on the water as I do. We kept quite busy during the week she was here. We participated in a full moon bike ride where everybody puts lights on their bikes, went out to Snipes sandbar and managed to haul in 10 lobster which we enjoyed on her last night.

She was also here to celebrate my, better sit down for this one, 60th birthday. The day went like this: Lobster fishing in the morning after which we drove up the Keys and stopped at a big flea market. From there we went to the Marathon Seafood Festival followed by a drink at a local Key dive bar. To cap it off we had dinner at a spectacular restaurant called The Square Grouper with a finale of Key Lime pie aboard Next Chapter.

I figured if you have to turn 60 you might as well make it memorable. We practically had to drag Mary off of the boat and shove her in her truck. It was a great visit all around and would mark the last of our visitors until we return to the Florida coast. 

So now we are in a holding pattern waiting again for a weather window to open so we can make our way to the Bahamas. We plan to jump off from a place called No Name harbor in Biscayne Bay and run the Gulf Stream to Bimini. We are both excited and a bit anxious but heck if there wasn’t a bit of apprehension then what fun would that be. 

                                  

Full Moon lighted bike parade. There were some wildly decorated bikes. We cruised the whole length of Duval St and thru some back streets. 

Bounty from the sea! Yum

Did I forget that we have a resident 100% bonafide Pirate on our dock. His name is Pirate Nick. He was instructing me in the fine art of swashbuckling. I think. Very colorful but friendly guy. The first morning he came over and gave us a bag of Baby’s Coffee, a local keys roaster. Sue really enjoyed it. 

   

Although we missed the Oceanview St Patty’s Day parade we made up for it here in Key West at the Waterfront Brewery. These were full timers from our marina. Gary, Ronnie and Jeff. I’m pretty sure that at some point thru out the evening I was mugged by a group of nasty leprechauns cuz the next day was pretty slow. 

Even in my less than 100% state I did manage to wrestle a few more bugs.

The Dry Tortugas

 

After Mark and Nancy left, Poseidon treated us to a rare weather window to allow us to go out to the Dry Tortugas which is 75 miles to the west. We were up early and left at first light. Once we past the Marquesas we had a period where we lost sight of land until Fort Jefferson showed up on the horizon. It turned out that there was five other Looper boats from a different marina heading there also.

The water was such an amazing color all the way. We anchored right in the small harbor right in front of the fort. Along the way we managed to catch a errant piece of line in our prop so first order of business was to put on my dive gear and go cut it off. The water was crystal clear. While I was working below the boat I had a visitor. It was a 250 lb plus Goliath Grouper that was about four feet long. He was very curious about me for some reason so much so at one point I got uncomfortable so I tapped him on the nose with my fin. He backed off but a few minutes later he showed back up and was right in my face. So I gently reached out and pushed him back.

He finally got the message seemed to honor my personal space. I must say I was quite intimidated by his size but an exhilarating experience none the less. What I would have given to have a camera! Sue was topside watching him swim around under the boat wondering if this was going to be an updated version of Jonah and the Whale!

We enjoyed hiking around the Fort and hearing the history of how it was built and it’s significance of the times. Couple of quick facts. It contains somewhere in the neighborhood of 16 million bricks all of which had to be brought by ship from as far away as Maine. There is no potable water source hence the word Dry in the name. Due to it’s location on the straights of Florida it was a strategic stronghold to protect the inland rivers which at the time was the life line of our developing nation.

And lastly, during the civil war it was occupied by the Union! We spent a day over at Loggerhead Island which was a quick 3 mile dinghy ride. The reef along the island is one of the healthiest we have seen in a long time. We were teased by numerous large lobster that somehow knew they were in protected waters. The sunsets and sunrises were epic showing off an almost pink hue.

The sound of  conch horns serenading the sunsets was magical. We also looked over a couple of Cuban Chugs that were beached on shore. They looked like they had been there for decades yet the park ranger said the oldest one was less than a week old. As some of you may have heard, there is a mass exodus out of Cuba due to deplorable economic conditions and new draconian laws that go into effect forbidding Cubans from leaving the country. Watching the float planes come in and take off never gets old. On our second night one of the bigger Looper boats hosted an extended Happy Hour with over a dozen folks. At one point during the evening we saw a UFO! Now I know I will take a ration over this but everybody onboard saw it. Most were unwilling to even try to offer a guess as to what it was. That’s pretty amazing with all the captains present who usually have an opinion about everything. Yes there was both pictures and video, none of which accurately portrayed what we saw. The morning of our departure we again were treated to a magical sunrise shortly after which we hauled the anchor and set a course back to Key West. The Dry Tortugas deservedly earned a place in our top ten experiences on the Loop. 

If you look carefully Next Chapter is in the background

                    The fort is surrounded by beautiful water

Sally port to Fort Jefferson

Cuban chug that landed only 5 days ago!

                           Float planes heading back to KW

Sunrise the morning of our departure back to Key West